mercredi 26 juillet 2017

A Chat with Rodolphe Pottier, the Youngest Chef in the French Michelin Guide

Rodolphe Pottier was the youngest starred chef to enter this year's Michelin Guide to France. At just 25 years old the young Frenchman based in Rouen, northern France, landed his first Michelin star just 18 months after the opening of his soberly named restaurant, Rodolphe. But don't be taken in by his age, Rodolphe Pottier might be a young chef but he has already come a long way.

The chef, who grew up in the Eure, nurtured an interest in cooking from a tender 12 years of age when he would accompany his grandparents to food markets to learn more about the wealth of produce. As an adolescent, he naturally progressed into hunting, fishing and mushroom picking.

Upon finishing high school Pottier enlisted at hotel school in Louviers, before pursuing on the job training in some of the most prestigious establishments in Paris, including the Bristol, the Ritz and the Mandarin Oriental. After climbing the ranks the young man went on to complete culinary trials in Morocco, Japan and London before returning to his native region to work in various establishments.

A couple of years ago Rodolphe Pottier immersed himself in his own project by opening his Rodolphe restaurant, along with his brother Jordan who takes care of front of house.

We caught up with the talented young chef to find out more.

You were awarded your first star just 18 months after opening. How do you explain such rapid success?
The star certainly came about just 18 months after opening, but I had already been thinking about my first establishment for some time before. For a few years, my brother and I had already been imagining what our first home would look like. The only missing pieces of the jigsaw puzzle were the place, and of course, the right time to get started. Once the pieces fell into place, this restaurant choice seemed obvious. My journey has helped a lot in the conquest of this first star. This star is the result of hard work, a constant questioning of this work and a constant search for excellence.

How did you react to the announcement of this first star?
My team and I burst into tears during the call.

Are you already aiming for a 2nd or even a 3rd star?
The gap between the first and the second star is immense. Today, the idea is to stabilise the foundations of our young restaurant. However, aged 25, it would be a shame not to aim even higher.

Why did you want to open your own restaurant aged 24, when others are waiting until their thirties or even their forties to do it?
After learning my trade and practicing my passion in some of the most beautiful French restaurants I felt sufficiently mature to welcome customers to my own venue. The fact that I was supported by my family also contributed greatly to my decision.

How would you define your kitchen?
I like to think that my kitchen is instinctive, spontaneous and frank. My quest to develop and add value to a main ingredient, stripped of embellishment is never ending.

What food would you recommend to a customer coming to your place for the first time?
A fish dish, I am very focused on the sea.

Which culinary experience has most affected you during your life?
A food stall in the heart of Tokyo specialising in Yumi Horumon. The small kebabs (yakitori) made in this address contain just beef offal, pork and chicken. Over the course of a few days, I went there many times until I knew the whole menu (laughs). I ate things previously unknown to me, but things that will surely influence my kitchen in the long term.

Where? Rodolphe, 35 rue Percière, Rouen
Website

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A Chat with Rodolphe Pottier, the Youngest Chef in the French Michelin Guide

9 Ways to Cook an Onion

The humble onion has to be the most versatile and important vegetable in the kitchen. Think of all the dishes that start with an onion: the stocks, the stews, and the sauces ...we could continue.

This simple infographic from Pounds to Pocket provides instructions for how to cook onions nine different ways, from caramelising them or sweating them down, to roasting them – whatever it takes to extract all that flavour and sweetness.

We’d probably suggest a few adaptations to these instructions, like maybe sweating your onions in butter to kick the richness of your dish up a level, but it’s a nice starting point if you want to know how to get the best out of the mighty bulb.

Do you want to learn from the pros too? Watch Michelin-starred chefs cook onions in different ways.

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9 Ways to Cook an Onion

Chef Hits Back at Exploitation Claims

A chef has been forced to defend the practice of unpaid trial shifts in his restaurant after he was accused of using them to fill labour gaps in his workforce.

Mark Greenaway was accused by the Scottish trade union group Better Than Zero of using trial shifts “to cover busy periods and use desperate young workers as a free cleaning service,” at his eponymous Edinburgh restaurant, according to The Caterer. The restaurant was recently voted the 15th best in the UK outside London by Square Meal readers. 

The group said they “were sent a tip off about working practices at Mark Greenaway’s while we were gathering info on unpaid trial shifts,” and would be taking “direct action” against the chef unless he made a public commitment to pay trial workers. It's unclear what that direct action would involve. In a Facebook post, Better Than Zero claimed: "We have heard from many sources (past and present employees) that [Greenaway] brings in between more than three trial shifts *per day* to cover busy periods."

Greenaway responded in a lengthy Facebook post, saying, "I can assure everyone that if successful in securing the job then yes they do get paid for their trial. We do not and never have done this to get free labour or to fill a labour gap." The trials typically last two to four hours and involve basic tasks, and, he said, it would cost more for him to arrange payment for trial workers than they would earn.

The practice is legal and standard across the industry, but a Scottish MP has recently lodged a Bill to end unpaid trial shifts all together. 

Should Mark Greenaway have to defend himself in this situation? Let us know your thoughts over on our Facebook page. 

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Chef Hits Back at Exploitation Claims

Restaurant Turns Terrible Review into a Drink

We've covered some pretty creative review comebacks at FDL HQ and, we have to admit, we love it when a snarky online reviewer gets put in their place.

The latest example of an angry keyboard warrior getting the creative treatment is that of online reviewer Wayne S.

Angry at what he perceived to be a pretty “poncey” place, Wayne S took to TripAdvisor to leave a one-star review of The Old Butcher’s bar and crab kitchen in Bristol, England.

"The owner struts about in dungarees, and if he has the chance to check his reflection he damn well makes sure he does,” added an obviously upset Wayne S.

“Would I eat there?”, he asked himself, before replying to himself, “never, only had crab on the menu anyway.”

Now, the owner, Ben Gatt, didn’t decide to get angry with Wayne S, he didn’t even take it upon himself to point out that crab kitchens normally sell a lot of crab. What Gatt took particular note of in the review was Wayne S’s reference to his fashion.

In a brilliant response to the review, Gatt took to the company’s Facebook to explain to Wayne S that his negative review had in fact inspired a brand new drink at the restaurant, “The Ponce’s Dungarees”.

Anyone wondering about the recipe for a Ponce’s Dungaree will be happy to know it’s pretty easy to make. It’s a mix of white wine, rose wine, Bols Blue liqueur and gomme syrup - a sweet sounding drink for a sweet smack down.

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Restaurant Turns Terrible Review into a Drink

mardi 25 juillet 2017

Nikos Roussos: 'Quality Always Prevails'

Nikos Roussos may have left the family silversmith business to become a chef, but his Funky Gourmet restaurant in Athens is pure gold. With two Michelin stars and a thoroughly modern outlook on traditional Greek food, it continues to break new ground. Roussos will share his experience as mentor to the Mediterranean region finalist Constadina Voulgari at S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2018.

Ahead of the competition, the chef spoke to Fine Dining Lovers about his own mentors, his innovative cuisine and what he really thinks about Michelin stars.

Can you remember the moment you decided to become a chef – what inspired you and what obstacles did you overcome to achieve your dream?
Before I become a chef I was studying economics alongside working in my family’s silversmith business. My hobby was to plate food for our house parties when suddenly I felt the need to start exploring food deeper. In 2002, I decided to change my career and enrolled in ICE culinary school in Manhattan, New York. Even though my family didn’t expect me to leave their business, I had their full support, so no serious obstacles to overcome really.

What was your biggest triumph as a young chef, and is there anything you would consider your biggest failure?
My biggest triumph started at the end of 2009 when I teamed up with Georgianna Hiliadaki (chef/co-owner) and Argyro Hiliadaki (managing director/co-owner) to create Funky Gourmet. At around age 27, we opened our restaurant during a very bad economic crisis in our country and we quickly established it worldwide with success. In just two years it gained its first Michelin star, and after two more years it gained a second star together with international recognition as a prominent avant-garde Greek restaurant. I wouldn’t say there was a single big failure in my life. I have made mistakes, big and small, which I try to learn from and, most importantly, try not to repeat.

As a mentor, what do you expect from your young chef, and what do you think you can offer her?
I’m glad to be Constadina Voulgari’s mentor. Constadina is a great professional, a lovely person and a very focused young chef, so I expect her to be herself. I hope I will be able to guide her using my experience and knowledge.

What would victory in the S.Pellegrino Young Chef competition mean for a young chef?
S.Pellegrino is a leading and prestigious establishment in the F&B industry. Victory in the S.Pellegrino Young Chef competition is a great achievement and a very prestigious asset in a young chef’s CV.

Who were your greatest mentors?
My greatest mentor was my first chef–instructor at ICE, Ted Siegel. An amazing chef, strict and to the point. He taught me how challenging and demanding this job is, and how to behave in a professional kitchen. My family taught me to work hard and be fair with people. Georgianna’s and Argyro’s father, Lefteris Hiliadakis, a great larger-than-life personality, continues to mentor me on how to focus. Last but not least, one of the first guests of Funky Gourmet, who became a beloved friend and a very important person to me, the late Petros Vettas, taught me that in the end quality always prevails.

Your food has been described as avant-garde: how do you strike a balance between art and accessibility?
We see food as a form of art, as a way to express our feelings. With respect to our Greek culinary heritage, we use the best products of our land in order to create conceptual degustation menus and engage our guests in a culinary experience. We aspire to introduce them our point of view of a refined Greek cuisine that is innovative and activates senses using a combination of Funky and Gourmet – fine dining in an imaginative and exciting way.

The Greek Salad Granita is considered to be your signature dish –what does it represent and why did you create it?
The Greek salad is the most emblematic Greek dish. Tomatoes mixed with cucumbers, olives, onions and feta cheese, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. At Funky Gourmet we love working with the best ingredients, and by using various cooking techniques we create conceptual dishes with interesting textures that highlight the unique character of each dish. Our salad is re-conceptualized and presented in the form of white granita. All the ingredients are mixed together, distilled, frozen and then spun in a special machine creating a texture of white snow. Although our eyes see powdery snow, the flavour and aromas are distinctly those of the traditional salad. We smell and taste fresh tomatoes but we don’t see even a speck of red in our dish. A miniature shovel is used in lieu of a fork.

You have worked in a number of countries as a chef. How have those experiences shaped you as a chef?
Working in different countries under different chefs is invaluable. Exploring each chef’s culinary perspective is the best start for building up a career. Working under pressure with fellow professionals from all over the world and sharing different cultures is what shapes you as a chef. Different cultures and culinary perspectives give knowledge and knowledge builds up experience. I thoroughly believe travelling plays an essential role in a chef’s development.

Funky Gourmet is one of only two Athens restaurants with two Michelin stars – how important are Michelin stars to you?
Michelin stars are among the oldest and most prestigious recognition for chefs and restaurants worldwide. Through the Michelin Guide you can introduce your restaurant concept to the globe. We are very honoured and proud to have gained two stars at Funky Gourmet. However, we always remember the advice a Michelin inspector once gave us: ‘never cook for the stars - the Michelin guide’s role is not to judge but to suggest'.

What are you working on at the moment and what are your plans for the future?
Funky Gourmet is always moving forward and aiming high. OPSO, our casual-modern Greek restaurant in London, progresses daily and is recognized as one of the leading Greek restaurants in town. For the future, we have just launched Modern Greek Food Group (MGFG), where we sum up all our establishments. Coming soon, our next project is a new perspective on Greek street food in London.

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Nikos Roussos: 'Quality Always Prevails'

Greek Night? Here are 10 Easy Greek Dinner Recipes Designed to Satisfy

There's something hugely comforting about authentic Greek recipes. Whether it's a fondness wrapped up in holiday memories and the heady scent of fragrant olive groves, the sparkling turquoise ocean and idyllic seaside tavernas ... or simply the unique, robust and generous flavours of traditional Greek dishes, there's no doubting this cuisine holds a special place in many food fan's hearts.

Whilst many traditional Greek recipes have evolved regionally and abroad, there are some defining dishes that should make the grade on any Greek night.

Representing a collection of those much loved iconic flavours we have all the easy Greek recipes you need below, from generously stuffed vine leaves and garlicky tzatziki to family favourites like aubergine laden moussaka and irresistible meatballs, you'll soon be transported back to the hum of cicadas and the sea lapping at your toes.

So, re-live those holiday moments with this selection of easy Greek dinner recipes and get a taste of the Mediterranean at home, wherever you are in the world.

Irresistibly Easy Greek Recipes

A classic Greek appetizer, the individual rice packed parcels wrapped in vine leaves make great finger food of There's something distinctly moreish about them.

No Greek dinner would be complete without tzatziki, a simple dip combining cucumber, garlic and yoghurt. Add alongside a taramosalata (fish roe dip), aubergine dip and fava dip to the equation and you're all set. 

The iconic baked Greek dish made of layers of aubergine, mincemeat, potato and tomatoes and spices, topped off with bechamel sauce and sheep's cheese. Nail this recipe and you've got comfort food sorted.

Lamb meatballs combined with classic Mediterranean ingredients of tomato and olives. You can't go wrong with this tasty crowd pleaser. 

A Greek style shrimp gratin this can all be put in the oven and enjoyed piping hot in an earthenware dish at the table.

No explanation needed, nothing captures Greek flavours like the freshest of Greek salads with prime quality ingredients.

An authentic feta cheese recipe from Greece: learn how to make bouyourdi, an easy but tasty dish prepared with feta, ripe tomatoes and olive oil.

Greeks love their sweets, and they don't come much better than this - the classic baklava, layering honey, filo and ground nuts. 

These crunchy exterior and chewy centred sesame and honey sweet bread snacks are traditionally found at street vendors or bakeries. They can be eaten for either sweet or savoury depending on the time of day.

Or, keep things simple and delicious in this simple dessert featuring three of fine ingredients, Greek yoghurt drizzled with honey and a scattering of pistachios.

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Greek Night? Here are 10 Easy Greek Dinner Recipes Designed to Satisfy

Pic2Recipe: Discover a Recipe from a Picture

Researchers at MIT say they have developed a piece of software that can analyse the picture of food and bring back the recipe required to make it.

Called Pic2Recipe, MIT says it currently has a 65% success rate in identifying a recipe from a simple picture of food.

To make the service work, a team from MIT’s Computer Science and Artificial Intelligence Laboratory created a database of around 1 million food recipes - this needs to be big because the software doesn’t actually look at a picture and guess the recipe, instead it lists all the ingredients it thinks are in the food - this data is then referenced with the database and users are sent 10 recipe suggestions that best match the picture recieved. 

The demo page is currently not online, which makes it hard to test the claims, but the video below shows what you can expect from the service.

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Pic2Recipe: Discover a Recipe from a Picture