lundi 31 juillet 2017

The Scientific Theory of Cocotte

Nothing could be simpler: you place a piece of meat, usually lamb or chicken, in a cocotte, and then add some chopped vegetables, salt and a few herbs. Put the lid on and cook over a very gentle heat. What do you get? Meat that is tender, succulent and packed with flavor.

This is the basic principle of the cocotte cooking method. “En cocotte”,  as French people say, cocotte being a typical round or oval French cooking pot made from cast iron or stove-resistant ceramic. In the past, cocottes used to be placed over a fire and hot embers were thrown onto its lid, to ensure that the food was cooked all the way through. Today, thanks to the use of better materials and shapes conducive to perfect heat circulation, the cocotte is a utensil that is more widely available and simple to use. Nevertheless, modern cocottes preserve the most important characteristic of this cookware, that of requiring no liquid. This is the difference between cooking en cocotte and traditional braising. 

Another difference is that when braising, small pieces of meat are used, while larger pieces and whole chickens are the protagonists of en cocotte preparations. Furthermore, the result is generally much more tender. So, to sum up: no liquid, a more authentic flavor, succulently tender meat and a simpler cooking method. Obviously, there must be a trick to cooking en cocotte so let's investigate and discover what science has to say about it.

What exactly is a cocotte?

To discover the secret of this ancient cooking method, the first thing to do is to take a closer look at the cocotte itself. It is made from a material that stores heat and releases it slowly, and this is the reason why a good cocotte is thick and heavy.

It is also important for its lid to be heavy so that, once in position, it fits firmly on the pot and "seals" it. In this way, the moisture level inside will remain constant, because only a minimum amount of water will be able to "escape". This is why it is advisable to place a sheet of tinfoil on top of the cocotte before covering it with the lid: in this way, it will act as a "seal" and you will be able to cook food in your cocotte at low temperatures and for much longer. Bear in mind that, in the case of chicken, the oven should be set at 120°C and left to cook for no less than two hours.

Conduction and Convection

From a scientific viewpoint, this slow cooking method, combined with the structure of a typical cocotte, optimizes the transfer of heat to the food. There is a phenomenon of conduction, first and foremost, in which heat penetrates the food, from its surface to its center. Then we have convection, in which heat is transferred from the moist air (inside our cocotte) to the food. Finally, there is the phenomenon of radiant heat, that is to say, the heat from high-energy waves which tends to heat the surface of the food (and spread thanks to conduction).

When combined, all of these phenomena gradually increase the temperature of the food inside our cocotte, without detracting from the natural moisture of the chicken or the delicious piece of lamb we are cooking. So, the muscle fibers have time to break down and tenderize the meat, without "watering down" any of its flavor.

Chicken en cocotte

If you wish to enjoy the results of this extraordinary cooking technique, we recommend you try the following recipe forFrench-style chicken en cocotte.

First of all, dry the chicken thoroughly and sprinkle it with salt and pepper. Heat some oil in a frying pan and add a finely chopped onion, three cloves of garlic, celery and some bay leaves. Gently fry the chicken for 6-7 minutes on each side, just long enough to give it some flavor and trigger the Maillard reaction.

Finally, place the chicken in a cocotte, together with the onion, celery and some carrots chopped into chunks, cover with tinfoil and close the lid. Then place in an oven at 120 °C, and cook for no less than two hours. When the cooking time is up, leave everything to rest for half an hour in the cocotte and get ready to enjoy a fantastic chicken.

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The Scientific Theory of Cocotte

What's on in August 2017: Unmissable Food Events Around the World

As the culinary calendar tips into the second half of the year, the food events around the globe are weighted in favour of a new and eclectic selction.

Nothing short of tempting and tantalising, from the red carpeted show biz glamour of Los Angeles to getting back to nature and foraging for your dinner in Copenhagen's WILD event, take your pick of food events what ever they are where ever you are this August.

Food Events in August 2017

1. Seafood Festivals, USA
2-6 August, 2017

The world renowned Maine lobster festival returns for its 70th year. Feast your eyes on other stateside seafood festivals including Louisiana Shrimp and Petroleum festival, and Georgia's Shrimp and Grits Festival.

Find out more here.

2. Wilderness Festival, UK
3-6 August

For a slice of British eccentricity and dining in the great outdoors head to Wilderness festival to 3 to 6 August and be blown away by spectacular banquets against the backdrop of world class music.

See what's on here.

3. Gelinaz! does Austria
20 August

A stellar line-up of top chefs are set to shake things up in characteristic Gelinaz! fashion. While this is a first in this Austrian location, Gelinaz's reputation goes before it.

Find out more here.

4. Copenhagen Cooking Festival
18-27 August, 2017

Copenhagen's unmissable food festival returns with a range of eclectic events from dining on Puglisi's farm to communal street dinners. If that wasn't enough Join Redzepi and his team on 27 August for a day of wild foraging in Denmark's largest outdoor ever foraging event.

See the line-up here.

5. LA Food & Wine Festival
25-27 August, 2017

For glitz and glamour head to this city wide event and prepared to be dazzled by the spread of exciting food events under the spotlight. Find out this year's highlights here.

6. New York Restaurant Week
Until 18 August

Get your fill of the city's best restaurants during a week when a selection of the city's finest restaurants. A three course lunch will set you back $29 while dinner comes in at a sweet $42.

Visit the website to find out participating restaurants.

7. Tomatina, Spain
30 August

The world's biggest food fight descends on a small Spanish town as around 20,000 revellers get stuck into a giant street party and tomato fight. Don't forget to pack your goggles and stain remover!

Find out more here.

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What's on in August 2017: Unmissable Food Events Around the World

Quinoa Stuffed Acorn Squash

How to Make Quinoa Stuffed Acorn Squash

To prepare a delicious quinoa stuffed acorn squash recipe first pre-heat oven to 205° C.

Cut your acorn squash in half length-wise and scoop out the seeds.

Brush the squash with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Place in a lightly oiled baking dish and pop into the oven.

Bake for 45 minutes.

Cook quinoa. Add parsley and pine nuts to the quinoa mixture and stir well.

After 45 minutes, remove the squash from the oven and stuff with the quinoa mixture.

Cook another 15 minutes with stuffing inside or until the edges of the quinoa stuffed acorn squash begin to brown.

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Quinoa Stuffed Acorn Squash

The Biggest Mistake People Make When Eating Steak

We all know meat needs to be rested after cooking to tenderise it and if you’re a steak lover that’s one of the golden rules you cook by.

But chef, writer and TV host Andrew Zimmern thinks the biggest mistake people make when eating steak is to serve it hot. Instead, he says, you should leave the meat to rest for up to 45 minutes and let it cool down to room temperature.

He had this to say to Business Insider:

"The big mistake people make is eating their grilled beef hot. I prefer room temperature or cool. When the meat rests and starts to get cool, all of that fat goes back into the muscles and becomes much more tender.

"If you were coming to my house for dinner tonight and you said, “Please grill me steak.” I would grill the steak and take it off the grill about 45 minutes before we eat it. And I would let it rest, and it would ultimately be at room temperature. And I think it has its best beef flavour that way, when some of those fats are actually in the muscles themselves." 

Watch the interview in full here and find out what Anthony Bourdain thinks is the worst mistake people make when cooking a steak

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The Biggest Mistake People Make When Eating Steak

Cooking on Coals: How to Grill Without a Rack

Ever found yourself searching for a rack so you can get that grill rocking in the garden? Yes, we thought so, which is why we’re highlighting this new video from ChefSteps.

They’ve taken the time to explain just how easy it is to skip the rack entirely and cook your food directly on the embers. “Grill like a caveman,” they promise as they explain some simple suggestions for what to whack directly onto the embers the next time you’re getting your grill on.

Egg plant, scallops, peppers and whole tomatoes are all some of the suggestions offered up, a simple idea but one that most people don’t seem to try when grilling at home.

We've also included a great video from Alton Brown as he explains how to grill steak directly on coals for some delicious results. 

Here's a bonus video showing you how to light a grill correctly, produced by Munchies. 

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Cooking on Coals: How to Grill Without a Rack

Dinner at One of the World's Most Expensive Restaurants

Alain Ducasse’s three Michelin star Le Louis XV restaurant in Monte-Carlo is old-school fine dining at its most opulent.

It’s a showcase for Ducasse’s refined and delicious Mediterranean cuisine, where the full dinner experience will set you back close to 500 euros ($585) per person.

While it’s a fantasy meal for many, this video from Elite Life offers a tantalising glimpse of what to expect, should you ever find yourself inside this grand, Versaille-like dining room at the L’Hotel de Paris.

It’s all white gloves, cloches and clockwork service, and precise three Michelin star food delivered with the kind of attention to detail you only find at restaurants of this calibre.

And, we'd happily sit and enjoy the bread basket and ultra-creamy looking local butter on its own. 

Watch below

Dinner at Le Louis XV

White gloves, palace interiors, made to measure menu — this is how the dinner from Alain Ducasse at Le Louis XV (Monte Carlo, Monaco) looks like. One of a kind restaurant that every food aficionado must visit.

Posted by Elite Life on Wednesday, July 5, 2017

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Dinner at One of the World's Most Expensive Restaurants

Michel Bras Chef Knives

Did you know that Michel Bras has a whole line of cookware designed alongside the world renowned designers, Kai?

That’s right, the French master has offered up his experience and expertise in producing a varied range of kitchen items, from chef knives to cutlery, kitchen tools to accessories.

Chefs are involved in a number of different collaborations these days, from large hotel restaurant chains to advertisements, sponsorships and a whole host of products. These type of partnerships lead to some exciting creations and one of them is this project from Bras.

Focusing in on the knives there are 10 different designs, covering everything from small paring knives to everyday chef knives and large butchers style knife.

As with everything Mr Bras does, there’s been a clear focus on the details in creating the knives, something you can see on display in the video below. The hand assembled knives, which are made in Japan, clock in at around $3,000 for the full set of 10.

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Michel Bras Chef Knives

What's The Deal with Savory Yogurt?

Instagram is blowing up with gorgeous renditions of savory yogurt. But do you know what this trend is all about? Let's take a closer look.

What is savory yogurt?

Savory yogurt, also known as vegetable yogurt, is a growing trend in the West. It is similar to smoothie bowls with the exception that it pairs plain yogurt with savory add-ins such as chickpeas, vegetables, gourmet salts, oils and spices.

Is savory yogurt actually new?

As with all things that come into fashion, savory yogurt is an evolution of traditional foods.

Savory yogurt has been around for millennia in the cuisines of the Middle East and Far East. Think of the Indian raita, Greek tzatziki or even the yogurt salads popular in countries like Turkey and Armenia.

 Here are some creative takes on savory yogurt concoctions making a splash around the web:

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dimanche 30 juillet 2017

Affordable luxury: The Amalfi Coast

In the Campania region on Southern Italy there is a stretch of coast deemed to be one of the most romantic and appealing places in the world for its climate, landscape, food and vast offering of hospitality structures: the Amalfi coast. Here are a few tips for making your visit to this wonderful place an experience worthy of any Hollywood star, a list exclusive Restaurants and Hotels, and gourmet experiences to be enjoyed by all.

From 0 to 25 Euro

Your day on the Amalfi coast has to start with a breakfast that lives up to the location. Sitting at a table in the Pasticceria Sal De Riso, a cake shop in Minori, you could get to meet Salvatore De Riso, the TV celebrity pastry chef. He rose to fame with his delizia al limone, and now continues to experiment with new products and ingredients. Order a slice of the mythical ricotta and pear cake, the Asia and Anastasia chocolate mousses, or his baba soaked in limoncello liqueur. As a first step, you could taste a couple of specialities and enjoy a good cup of coffee.

Pasticceria Sal De Riso
Via Roma, 80 - 84010 Minori
Website

From 25 to 50

At the Monastero Santa Rosa, a boutique hotel just a few kilometres away from Amalfi, the atmosphere is one of luxury with a hint of spirituality. The hotel has been created in what used to be an ancient convent of cloistered nuns who lived here for centuries dedicating their lives to prayer and the practice of medicinal and culinary arts. It is believed that the famous sfogliatelle, a typical local sweet pastry, was first made here. Following a ten year restoration project which has converted the convent into a fabulous resort, American businesswoman, Bianca Sharma, then turned her attention to its cuisine. For Il Refettorio restaurant, she engaged Christoph Bob, former right hand man of the three-starred chef Heinz Beck, for whom he shares a passion for Neapolitan cuisine. If you wish to enjoy its all-Italian flavour to the full without exceeding your budget, you can try one of these dishes: bass-filled ravioli with three types of tomatoes, green tomatoes, Corbara cherry and cream of yellow tomatoes, or alternatively crudo di ricciola, that is to say, a carpaccio of amberjack flavoured with a sea urchin emulsion and lemon (around 25 Euro).

Il Refettorio
Monastero Santa Rosa Hotel & Spa
Via Roma, 2 - 84010 Conca dei Marini
Website

Le Sirenuse is a luxury hotel in the centre of Positano, which has been run by several generations of the Sersale family. At this point the coast is particularly steep and the hotels, set in the cliffs, compete to offer the best view and service. John Steinbeck, who came here in 1953, wrote that Positano “is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone”.
In the evening when the four hundred candles are lit and a mandolin starts to play the old melodies, the starred restaurant La Sponda becomes one such dream place. Gennaro Russo, aged just 29, has taken over the helm of the restaurant, leading it to Michelin star level. Gragnano spaghetti with shellfish coral and raw calamari (36 Euro) is a superb dish. As an alternative, choose another terrace with a spectacular view, that of the Champagne Barand grill. Here the menu is played out between oysters and seafood, fish carpaccio and tartare (30 Euro approx + 15 for a glass of wine).

La Sponda - Champagne bar and grill
Hotel Le Sirenuse
Via Cristoforo Colombo, 30 - 84017 Positano
Website

From 50 to 100

When staying at one of the oldest hotel establishments in the area of Sorrento, the Grand Hotel Cocumella, where she used to be one of its illustrious guests, novelist Mary Shelley wrote: "At every moment the senses, lapped in delight, whisper – this is paradise”. This converted monastery has an immense terrace, a park and a very fruitful organic vegetable garden which supplies the three restaurants of the hotel managed by chef Carlo Matarese and his team. Scintilla is a traditional restaurant, while Coku is a robata restaurant, combining the Mediterranean and Japanese styles of cuisine. Calamaro with soy sauce and ginger, octopus with yakitori sauce or terriyaki chicken. Here you can afford to enjoy three courses and a fine glass of Chardonnay (approximately 17 Euro for each course).

Scintilla - Coku
Grand Hotel Cocumella
Via Cocumella, 7 - 80065 Sant’Agnello di Sorrento
Website

Have you always thought of the legendary Hotel San Pietro in Positano as being beyond your means? Gregory Peck, the Rockefellers, Peter O'Toole, Tina Turner, Barbra Streisand, Dustin Hoffman and the King of Jordan have all dined here. The view overlooking Praiano and the Coast, the starred restaurant of the San Pietro and the terrace perched high on the cliff make it a truly unique and sought-after location. Also thanks to the excellent management of the Cinque family. Restaurant guests may also arrive by boat, from where they take the panoramic lift up the cliff and enjoy a full-immersion Costiera experience. Every room in the hotel has the benefit of a sea view. Zass, the starred restaurant, has made world news with its 400 sq m kitchen dug deep in the rock, in which a brigade of 32 people are at work. The cuisine of the San Pietro has won an award for being the most eco-friendly in the world. Chef Alois Vanlangenaeker seeks purity, harmony and freshness in his dishes. Order any one of the dishes on the menu, such as the spaghetti with 3 types of tomato or a couple of cocktails if you go there before dinner. You too will be able to say you have been to the San Pietro.

Zass
Hotel San Pietro
Via Laurito, 2 – 84017 Positano
Website

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Affordable luxury: The Amalfi Coast

samedi 29 juillet 2017

The Week in Bites 30 July 2017

A Taste of Albania

This week at Fine Dining Lovers we kicked things off with a spectacular dining tour of Albania.

We traveled to Tirana, the nation's capital, to sample a taste of exquisite local cuisine and the flavors of the nearby mountains.

Join us as we discover where to eat in Albania.

Around The World in Hot Weather Foods

We had a little fun this week sampling food from around the globe. We wanted to know how locals cool off in the summer.

We tasted everything from Spanish gazpacho and Italian gelato to Peruvian ceviche and beyond.

Check out our list of global foods to cool off.

In the blog

This week in the blog we brought you tips on how to make ceviche like a Peruvian chef, a list of 10 things you might be eating at the new Noma and the secret to making David Kinch's famous granola cookie.

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The Week in Bites 30 July 2017

7 Irresistable Burrata Recipes for Summer

Burrata, the Queen of Italian cheeses with a flawless pale exterior and an oozing heart. Perfect on its own and even better when in company. Burrata elevates the everyday to the gourmet, especially in our selection of irresistable burrata recipes.

Originating in Southern Italy in the Apulian origin, this sought after creamy delicacy has since made it to the heady heights of fine dining 100 floors up in Hong Kong - if you do not believe it, read our article.

Yet, don't be fooled by its smooth appearance: what appears to be a common ball of mozzarella, is in fact is a wickedly sinful ingredient, capable of transforming even the most simple of bruschetta into a decadent original recipe. 

Perfect on a slice of chargrilled bread and garnished with anchovy to balance the creaminess yet equally impeccable on a summer pasta with confit tomatoes, today we share the burrata recipes to amaze your guests this summer.

How do you eat yours? Let us know over on our facebook page ...

Burrata Recipes to try this Summer

1. Gazpacho Verde with Burrata Cheese 

If summer time is about avoiding the heat of the kitchen why not use burrata to accompany a green and summery gazpacho? Find the Gazpacho with burrata recipe here

2. Pasta with Charred Tomatoes, Burrata and Rosemary Oil

Photo: Rachel Vanni/Tasting Table

Add a decadent touch to your favourite simple pasta recipe with a generous scattering of torn pieces of burrata and let the creaminess sing through every mouthful of al dente pasta.

Find the tasty recipe here.

3. Beef tartare with Burrata

Chopped Piedmontese Beef with sweet and sour red onion, burrata cheese with pink pepper, olive oil and anchovy dressing makes for an elegant fresh starter in this recipe from Italian chef Giancarlo Morelli.

Here's the burrata and beef recipe.

4. Burrata Soup with Mackerel

Chef Fabrizio Ferrari presented this seafood inspired dish at Identità, on the occasion of the World Oceans Day demonstrating how this humble fish can be tamed by the delicateness of burrata.

 Find the recipe here.

5. Burrata and Beetroot Recipe    

Try this stunning salad with a difference from Xavier Boyer showcasing baby beetroots, spicy green meat radishes and silky, showcasing white creamy burrata at its finest. 

Find the recipe over at the Great British Chefs.

6. Burrata and Blood Orange Salad

Burrata also pairs beaufifully with citrus. Try this simple salad starter recipe from Francesco Mazzei with vibrant blood oranges and a generous portion of burrata to get stuck into.

Get the recipe here

7. Burrata and Zucchini Flower Pizza

If you love pizza and burrata, this is a match made in heaven. The velvety cheese makes a decadent mozzarella substitution on stone baked pizza, along with zucchini flowers in this tempting recipe.

Get the recipe here.

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7 Irresistable Burrata Recipes for Summer

vendredi 28 juillet 2017

Visual Feast: Visual Explorations of Food

In a time when sharing food photos on Social Media has become part of our daily lives, publisher Gestalten has released a new book on food staging and photography as a source of visual and artistic exploration. 

Visual Food. Contemporary Food Staging and Photography explores different styles of capturing food and dishes in pictures created for publishing in food magazines and books, to be shared on Instagram or even transformed into infographics.

Secrets of Food Photography

Food has deep roots in our pop-culture, as well as being an interesting subject for professional photographers. In our Social Media era, food photography is also beginning to interest chefs, who might even now consider how a dish will look in pictures when plating it.

Visual Feast shows how food stylists and photographers creates visual artifices to innovate the ways of representing food in mouth-watering images. From still lifes inspired by Caravaggio’s paintings to colorful pop images, and surrealistic and eccentric photos, the book reveals incredible techniques in capturing edible delights in an artistic way.

We have selected just a few of the amazing pictures in Visual Feast:enjoy the gallery at the top of the page!

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Visual Feast: Visual Explorations of Food

Watch René Redzepi Forage for Ingredients for the New Noma Menu

Having just returned from a successful pop-up venture in Mexico, René Redzepi and the Noma team have been busy preparing for the reopening of the restaurant at a new site in Copenhagen later this year by doing what they do best, apart from cooking of course: foraging.

They’re spending the summer visiting farms and fisheries, and scouring the countryside all over Northern Europe for inspiration. Luckily for us, Redzepi has been documenting his discoveries on social media, giving us a tantalising glimpse into the creation of the Noma 2.0 menu. He’s also just launched a foraging app.

Some of the ingredients look amazing, including tiny little forest onions, fragrant Alexanders flowers, and all sorts of berries and beautiful seafood. 

The old Noma space meanwhile is now home to restaurant Barr, with chef Thorsten Schmidt at the helm, and for those who can’t wait until the opening of Noma 2.0, did you know there’s a new Noma pop-up happening in Copenhagen this summer?

See what Redzepi and the Noma team have been up to, below.

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Watch René Redzepi Forage for Ingredients for the New Noma Menu

How To Make Ceviche: Essential Tips From Chef Gastón Acurio

If you are a fan of Peruvian food, you may already be addicted toceviche. This cured fish dish has a pleasant tang and a cool, refreshing flavor that makes it ideal for summer meals. While ceviche looks fancy on a plate the truth is it can be prepared at home in as little as 15 minutes.

So how do you make ceviche? There are many versions of ceviche across Latin America so techniques vary from region to region and cook to cook. However, if you want to learn how to make ceviche like a boss, below are some tips we picked up from renown chef Gastón Acurio, Peru's culinary ambassador.

Golden Rules For Making Ceviche

  • Use the freshest fish possible. Never use fish or seafood that's been previously frozen.
  • Use only fresh lime juice. The flavor from the bottled kind will never be the same.
  • Squeeze fresh limes using your fingers. Kitchen tools would apply too much pressure and release the bitterness from the pith.
  • Never cure fish in plastic. Use only glass containers.
  • Consume immediately. Ceviche is not a dish that should be left to linger for tomorrow's dinner.

Now that you've got the basics, you'll need a quick and easy ceviche recipe. This version of ceviche calls for corvina filet, limes and ají limo, a sweet pepper indigenous to Peru. You'll find the complete list of ingredients here but the steps for making ceviche are as follows:

1. Place the fish in a cold glass bowl (leave the bowl in the freezer a couple minutes to get cold).

2. Season with salt and pepper, and add the aji limo. Mix well.

3. Add the lime juice, and let it sit for 1 minute.

4. Add the onion and fish broth. Mix well. Let this sit, refrigerated for up to 15 minutes before serving.

5. Serve on individual plates, on top of a large lettuce leaf.

For an interesting contrast, you can also try making hot ceviche. This recipe comes to us right from Chef Acurio's files and is an interesting spin on shrimp. Learn how to make it.

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How To Make Ceviche: Essential Tips From Chef Gastón Acurio

jeudi 27 juillet 2017

Around the World in Hot Weather Foods

Verycold dishes bring coolness directly into your tummy, which certainly helps cool you down when the weather is hot. Why would you eat spicy, sweat-inducing foods when it’s hot outside? It seems illogical, right? Sweat triggers the body’s natural cooling system, like a sprinkler built into your skin, which is why eating spicy is traditional in the hottest regions of the globe.

While ice cream and sorbet are obvious choices, there are also some surprises in this month’s look at what a variety of cultures turn towhen the midsummer temperatures head skyward.

Italian gelato

Gelato is the king of summer treats, but few realize that people have been eating something ice-cream-like for millennia. Alexander the Great liked to eat snow drizzled with honey, and Emperor Nero had runners zip up into the mountains and rush down to bring him a similar treat (let’s hope they ran real fast). But it was around 1553 that the chefs accompanying Caterina de Medici when he traveled from Florence to marry Henri II of France, who developed a recipe that closely resembles the creamy ice cream of today. From around 1660 on, ice cream became available to those beyond the gates of royal palaces, and Café Procope in Paris, run by Sicilian immigrants, was the first to serve it to the masses.

North Korean mul-naengmyeon

Cold noodles in a cold broth sounds pretty cooling. Noodles made of buckwheat and potato starch are served in a dongchimi, radish water kimchi broth. There are several variations, but their origin seems to be in North Korea, brought to the South by immigrants. You can have them spicy or not, but either way the noodles are cold and the broth is, too.

Peruvian ceviche

Raw fish had better be kept nice and cool until served, and ceviche simply calls for margination in a lightly-acidic liquid, like lemon juice, to ever-so-gently “cook” the fish through the acid reaction, kicking up the flavor without adding a lick of heat.

Italian Bruschetta

Italian bread is often pretty bleak - there’s a centuries-old tradition in central Italy of refusing to salt bread, dating back to outrage over a salt tax. Bruschetta is a catchall term for a slice of toasted, usually salt-free bread loaded with various goodies: olive oil, salt and garlic, for the purists, chopped tomato, basil and olive oil (and salt), or all manner of other variations. One constant is that the topping should have a measure of salt in it.

Levantine tabbouleh

Light tabbouleh salad that is just the thing for sultry days. Bulgur wheat is at the core, augmented with chopped parsley, onion, tomato, olive oil, lemon juice and mint. The Arabic tabil means “seasoning,” and some might look at the salad as a mixture of seasonings, but the whole is much more than the sum of its parts. In the Middle East, tabbouleh’s focus is the parsley, whereas in Europe the bulgur wheat is the star. Tabbouleh looks like a parsley salad, but the brightness of mint, lemon and tomato, all fresh in the heart of summer, and the lightness of the dish, though it is satisfyingly filling, make it ideal for the hottest months.

Roman grattachecca

The story goes that Marco Polo returned from China with a sorbet-like recipe, introducing the concept to the West. A sort of sorbet or granita, this “shaved ice” is still a favorite in Rome, scratched from a large block of sweetened ice so you can eat it with a spoon.

American deviled eggs

Historians can’t quite figure out why they are “deviled” but hardboiled eggs sliced in two, with the yolk removed, zested with mayo and mustard, whipped, and reinserted into the cavity of the white, are a lovely, filling summer snack.

Spanish gazpacho

The summer favorite of cold tomato and pepper soup is surprisingly complex, with hits of lime juice, vinegar, raw onion and garlic expanding the palette and chilling you out, all at once.

Sichuan cold sesame noodles

Liangmian cold noodles with a sesame paste are a big hit in American takeout stands, a super street snack that cools and spices. They are eaten as a street food throughout China and Taiwan, but the version most Anglophone readers will know has its origins in New York’s Chinatown.

Capri insalata caprese

As the history books say that it hails from the island of Capri (as the name suggests). Slices of tomato and mozzarella are layered on the plate, topped with some basil. Whatever the case, it’s completely delicious, but utterly reliant on wonderful, fresh ingredients. And it even looks like the Italian flag!

Greek salad

A Greek person explained to me that in a Greek salad there must be no lettuce, the salad must not be tossed before serving, feta cheese must not be cubed but in one large slice, tomato and cucumber must be in large pieces, and it must be served in a shallow bowl. I guess it depends on who you ask and, since horiatiki is, by definition, a “village” salad, then the recipe can alter from village to village. Whatever your definition, it’s going to be good.

Chongqing hot pot

In this region of China, summer weather calls for super spicy hot pot, gurgling with lava-like beef fat, into which you can dip your choice of ingredients to cook. The Chinese believe that hot dishes can relieve qing huo, or internal heat, so the more spice-induced sweat, the merrier!

German cole slaw

Shredded cabbage in oil and vinegar is the base of this German version, Krautsalat, but the more famous one is the Americanized style, with shredded carrot and loads of mayonnaise.

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The Worst Service Faux Pas According to Danny Meyer

New York restaurateur Danny Meyer is as good a person as any to ask about the dos and don’ts of restaurant service.

In a recent interview the Union Square Hospitality Group CEO was asked to choose the one service faux pas that riles him more than any other and it was staff giving diners way more information than asked for.

This is what he had to say:

I can’t stand it when someone answers a question I never asked them, whether it’s a sommelier or the server, or the person serving the cheese. It’s really impressive if I ask you about the cheese, when you have the answer ... but it’s depressive to me when you tell me everything about the five cheeses, even before knowing that I care or that I even want cheese.”

But, he continues: “It comes from a good place: they’re proud that they know who milled the flour that went into the awesome bread.”

Listen to the full interview with Eater here, in which he also discusses his decision to eliminate tipping in all his restaurants and his desire to see the meal cheque become a thing of the past.

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The Worst Service Faux Pas According to Danny Meyer

30 Things That Drive Chefs Crazy

We’ve previously highlighted the things that drive all chefs crazy, from little niggles to apoplectic rage-inducing – indeed it’s something chef and writer Paul Sorgule picked up on in this brilliant piece for us. We also opened the floor to our readers, who didn’t hold back when it came to sharing the things that nearly push them over the edge every day. So, we’ve decided to draw up a list of universal peeves all chefs can relate to.

Here then, in no particular order, are 30 things that drive chefs crazy. We’re sure you’ll recognise many of these with a shudder. Any missing? Let us know over on our Facebook page.

30 things that drive chefs crazy

1. Undependable vendors

2. Salespeople who don’t know their products

3. Lateness

4. Not showing up with no call

5. Dull knives

6. Lack of respect for ingredients

7. Not labelling and dating

8. Waste

9. Things not returned to their proper place

10. Cleanliness, both personal and around the kitchen

11. Asking others to taste before tasting yourself

12. Not being ready

13. Inconsistency

14. Rude customers

15. Not doing your job to the best of your ability

16. Lack of teamwork

17. "Not my job" 

18. Being carefree about breakages

19. Leaving pan handles over the gas flame

20. Walking off the line to smoke when it’s busy

21. Dish modifications from customers

22. Cellphones on the line

23. Opening cans with knives

24. Fake allergies

25. Borrowing knives/tools without asking

26. Slow walkers

27. Back chat

28. Food trends

29. Not answering when tickets are called

30. Throwing food

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30 Things That Drive Chefs Crazy

Los Angeles Food & Wine Festival Tickets Now on Sale

The red carpet is all set to be rolled out on the seventh edition of the glamorous city wide Los Angeles Food & Wine Festival, with tickets now on sale.

Four days of dazzling food festivities will take place right across the city of Angels from 24 to 27 August in the ultimate food event, whose sponsors include Acqua Panna and S.Pellegrino.

Curtis Stone opens proceedings on August 24 with the "Ultimate Bites of LA", a walkaround tasting event attracting culinary talent from across the city and giving visitors a taste of some of what's hot right now.

The multi-sensory Friday Night Market takes the limelight on 25 August where an abundance of unique tastings from some of the nation's most influential chefs will tantalise guests.

Head to Grand Avenue for a gathering of global flavours from Taipei to Kuala Lumpur where the infectious celebratory chaos custom cocktails, sake, beer and free-flowing wine are sure to add up to a fun night.

The Lexus Grand Tasting closes out the event on Sunday where guests get the chance to meet some of their biggest culinary crushes from the weekend. 200 wines will be presented from some of the world's most prestigious wineries plus 25 celebrity chefs will showcasing their culinary skills and provide delicious and decadent tasting samples of their cuisine. 

Tickets for individual events can be bought through the website.

What Los Angeles Food & Wine Festival
When August 24 - 27, 2017
Where Los Angeles, USA
Web www.lafw.com

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Los Angeles Food & Wine Festival Tickets Now on Sale

Do You Know How To Cook Swiss Chard? Try These Tips and Recipes

Do you know how to cook Swiss chard? This is one vegetable that is almost impossible to screw up. When it is young and tender it is perfect for salads but when it matures it makes for effortless sautéing. That's just the beauty of this dark leafy green.

Add to that an amazing amount of calcium, potassium, magnesium and Vitamin A, and you've got yourself a nutritional powerhouse that gives kale a run for its money.

Swiss chard, also known as silver beet and perpetual spinach, comes in a variety of colors. You'll find stems ranging from bright yellow and orange to red, purplish and even pink hues. It is in season from July to November.


Eflon/Flickr

How to Cook Swiss Chard: Tips and Recipes

So how do you cook Swiss chard? In reality, this is an easy vegetable to prep and cook. Simply follow these steps:

  1. Wash the Swiss chard to remove any grit and debris.
  2. Fold in half vertically so you can slice off the stem.
  3. Chop to desired size.

To sauté: cook garlic and onions in a pan with a bit of oil, when the onions are translucent add the chopped Swiss chard. Cook until  tender, anywhere from 7 to 10 minutes.

As with all dark leafy greens you'll want to add a citrusy component which will jazz up the flavor but, more importantly, will help your body absorb the iron in the greens. This could be a squeeze of fresh lemon juice at the end, the addition of segmented oranges, or even sliced mango if you are into sweet and savory combos.

Swiss Chard and Pasta

A wonderful idea for cooking Swiss chard is to use it as a filling for ravioli. Take a cue from Mario Batali who paired Swiss chard with ricotta, herbs, chickpeas and black garlic

Here is Batali's recipe for Swiss chard ravioli.

Swiss Chard Goes Vegan

Italian chef Pietro Leeman, who specialized in vegan cuisine, shares a whimsical recipe that pairs Swiss chard with mushrooms, herbs and pasta.

Learn how to make it.

Swiss Chard on Bruschetta

Here is an exquisite recipe from British chef Theo Randall featuring Marsala soaked pan-roasted pigeon on Swiss chard bruschetta and chanterelles.

Find the recipe here.

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Do You Know How To Cook Swiss Chard? Try These Tips and Recipes

Delicious Democracyat Fish & Game

The Fish and Game restaurant sits proudly in the centre of Hudson, about two hours drive from New York City. Housed inside a wonderful stone farmhouse, it’s owned and operated by the eclectic chef crew of Kevin Pomplun, Zakary Pelaccio and Jori Jayne Emde - all three of them sharing a wide range of experience, a love for cuisine, and a shared urge to leave the crazy crank of New York in search for a more tranquil offering.

“Hudson Valley regional cuisine focused on local seasonal products”, is how they first define the cuisine, but a quick look at the menu and a few minutes of conversation with Pelaccio and Pomplun and you quickly realise it’s a bit more complex than just cooking with local products.

Ok, they do focus a lot on sourcing locally, I mean a lot. Starting when they first opened the restaurants in 2011 with a shortlist of 265 different farms. This has now been whittled down to six who they work with on a regular basis. “It’s crazy to think that when we started we were looking at around 25 different dairy farms,” says Pomplun.

“I guess it’s the true American version of what is properly considered Italian cuisine, explains Pelaccio. “Cooking with what is around us - that’s what Italian food is, right? We use that Philosophy but through very unique filters. Kevin has a lot more French training, I have a lot of Asian training, Jori has got a variety of training and she produces the larder for the restaurant, the kimchi, pickles and reserves.”

This democratic mixing of skills, ideas and approaches makes for some interesting ideas on the menu. Ingredients, techniques, styles and tastes from all over the world often mix right there on your tongue. Their kimchi hollandaise probably best exemplifies this, slathered on top of oysters it’s a bit of French, Korean and Hudson rolled into one. And it’s delicious, the briny oysters perfectly offset with a sharp kick of kimchi hollandaise.

They make their own XO sauce using homemade ham, Italian technique meeting Asian flavours. This is then peppered on top of juicy Maine scallops, and, as with all of their dishes, the backbone of local is formed. It’s a global facing gastronomy, a style of cooking we’re seeing more and more as young chefs open their ideal restaurants. For Pelaccio, however, it’s distinctly American, “I actually think that it’s the best idea of America, that there is no box to put it in, it goes in the miscellaneous bin because everyone is from everywhere here.” And for Pomplun, “it’s a conglomerate of techniques that are all used to maximise Hudson Valley ingredients.”

However you look at it, it’s a pretty open and democratic menu, a theme that the duo say also runs within the kitchen. There is a noticeable breakaway from the idea of one main head chef within the restaurant, you could argue that’s because three people started the business together, but throughout the interview with Pelaccio and Pomplun sits Tony Scotto, one of their most trusted chefs and someone they happily introduce as the one in charge of day-to-day operation of the kitchen. That might not seem like much, but I can say in five years of interviewing chefs, I’ve never had one bring a sous into a planned interview and laud them with so much credit.

In fact, it seems that the idea of flattening the structure of the kitchen is something important to the culture of the restaurant. “We sit down and we have discussions about everything, it’s less hierarchy and more that we all fit into complementary roles, ideas for a menu will come from one person, another might discuss the merits of the technique involved, and then another person will understand whether or not it can be made into a dish that will actually run everyday on the menu.”

Pomplun explains that it was definitely an intentional approach to setting up the kitchen from the start, as was offering two days holiday a week - another growing trend we’re seeing as restaurants look to attract the best chefs. For Pomplin, it was about reflecting on his past and changing the way he went forward. “I mean what we grew up with in the trade, a chef would taste the food and if he didn’t like it maybe spit it back in your face and that was the nature of the beast. I think abuse breeds abuse and I think that’s why there was always such a hierarchy in the past, the chef was the guy who created everything while everyone else just did it, I mean, everyone else was just so beat down to have the emotional stability to be creative. That was just how people were treated and moving up here was part of a big shift to try and change that aspect of my life and not breed that culture.”

For someone like Scotto, a young chef with aspirations and a want to be creative, a more flattened hierarchy is a bonus and something he says attracts him to seek and stay in a job. “I think it’s a breath of fresh air when we can all share ideas, pull from different backgrounds, we’re not set on one thing, we all talk about what’s around - what’s growing, what’s not growing, what’s preserved, what tastes awesome. We don’t have to fit into a mould…It helps when you get to see your ideas through all the way to finish.”

And far from being altruistic, Pomplun and Pelaccio say that opening up their kitchen in this way allows them to push forward much faster. “The idea is that we have transferred the power in many respects to Tony. We have a dynamic partnership here, we’re interesting in a lot of things, his strength and level headiness allows us to entertain more things to do and expand on different ideas. Connect to products, meet farmers, focus on how the restaurant operates.”

It’s a seemingly relaxed and open way of working and one that is loved by staff, a more sustainable human model that will eventually become the norm as younger chefs with different ideals step from kitchen to ownership. For Pomplun, it’s pretty simple really, “We have fish sauce that takes sometimes three years to make, prosciutto is usually about three years, you have to be mellow, enjoy the process, understand that this is a lifestyle not a job.”

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Delicious Democracyat Fish & Game

mercredi 26 juillet 2017

Delicious Democracyat Fish & Game

The Fish and Game restaurant sits proudly in the centre of New York’s beautiful Hudson Valley, about two hours drive from New York City. Housed inside a wonderful stone farmhouse, it’s owned and operated by the eclectic chef crew of Kevin Pomplun, Zakary Pelaccio and Jori Jayne Emde - all three of them sharing a wide range of experience, a love for cuisine, and a shared urge to leave the crazy crank of New York in search for a more tranquil offering.

“Hudson Valley regional cuisine focused on local seasonal products”, is how they first define the cuisine, but a quick look at the menu and a few minutes of conversation with Pelaccio and Pomplun and you quickly realise it’s a bit more complex than just cooking with local products.

Ok, they do focus a lot on sourcing locally, I mean a lot. Starting when they first opened the restaurants in 2011 with a shortlist of 265 different farms. This has now been whittled down to six who they work with on a regular basis. “It’s crazy to think that when we started we were looking at around 25 different dairy farms,” says Pomplun.

“I guess it’s the true American version of what is properly considered Italian cuisine, explains Pelaccio. “Cooking with what is around us - that’s what Italian food is, right? We use that Philosophy but through very unique filters. Kevin has a lot more French training, I have a lot of Asian training, Jori has got a variety of training and she produces the larder for the restaurant, the kimchi, pickles and reserves.”

This democratic mixing of skills, ideas and approaches makes for some interesting ideas on the menu. Ingredients, techniques, styles and tastes from all over the world often mix right there on your tongue. Their kimchi hollandaise probably best exemplifies this, slathered on top of oysters it’s a bit of French, Korean and Hudson rolled into one. And it’s delicious, the briny oysters perfectly offset with a sharp kick of kimchi hollandaise.

They make their own XO sauce using homemade ham, Italian technique meeting Asian flavours. This is then peppered on top of juicy Maine scallops, and, as with all of their dishes, the backbone of local is formed. It’s a global facing gastronomy, a style of cooking we’re seeing more and more as young chefs open their ideal restaurants. For Pelaccio, however, it’s distinctly American, “I actually think that it’s the best idea of America, that there is no box to put it in, it goes in the miscellaneous bin because everyone is from everywhere here.” And for Pomplun, “it’s a conglomerate of techniques that are all used to maximise Hudson Valley ingredients.”

However you look at it, it’s a pretty open and democratic menu, a theme that the duo say also runs within the kitchen. There is a noticeable breakaway from the idea of one main head chef within the restaurant, you could argue that’s because three people started the business together, but throughout the interview with Pelaccio and Pomplun sits Tony Scotto, one of their most trusted chefs and someone they happily introduce as the one in charge of day-to-day operation of the kitchen. That might not seem like much, but I can say in five years of interviewing chefs, I’ve never had one bring a sous into a planned interview and laud them with so much credit.

In fact, it seems that the idea of flattening the structure of the kitchen is something important to the culture of the restaurant. “We sit down and we have discussions about everything, it’s less hierarchy and more that we all fit into complementary roles, ideas for a menu will come from one person, another might discuss the merits of the technique involved, and then another person will understand whether or not it can be made into a dish that will actually run everyday on the menu.”

Pomplun explains that it was definitely an intentional approach to setting up the kitchen from the start, as was offering two days holiday a week - another growing trend we’re seeing as restaurants look to attract the best chefs. For Pomplin, it was about reflecting on his past and changing the way he went forward. “I mean what we grew up with in the trade, a chef would taste the food and if he didn’t like it maybe spit it back in your face and that was the nature of the beast. I think abuse breeds abuse and I think that’s why there was always such a hierarchy in the past, the chef was the guy who created everything while everyone else just did it, I mean, everyone else was just so beat down to have the emotional stability to be creative. That was just how people were treated and moving up here was part of a big shift to try and change that aspect of my life and not breed that culture.”

For someone like Scotto, a young chef with aspirations and a want to be creative, a more flattened hierarchy is a bonus and something he says attracts him to seek and stay in a job. “I think it’s a breath of fresh air when we can all share ideas, pull from different backgrounds, we’re not set on one thing, we all talk about what’s around - what’s growing, what’s not growing, what’s preserved, what tastes awesome. We don’t have to fit into a mould…It helps when you get to see your ideas through all the way to finish.”

And far from being altruistic, Pomplun and Pelaccio say that opening up their kitchen in this way allows them to push forward much faster. “The idea is that we have transferred the power in many respects to Tony. We have a dynamic partnership here, we’re interesting in a lot of things, his strength and level headiness allows us to entertain more things to do and expand on different ideas. Connect to products, meet farmers, focus on how the restaurant operates.”

It’s a seemingly relaxed and open way of working and one that is loved by staff, a more sustainable human model that will eventually become the norm as younger chefs with different ideals step from kitchen to ownership. For Pomplun, it’s pretty simple really, “We have fish sauce that takes sometimes three years to make, prosciutto is usually about three years, you have to be mellow, enjoy the process, understand that this is a lifestyle not a job.”

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Delicious Democracyat Fish & Game