After exploring the rich myriad of Sicilian street food, it is time to give voice to another of Italy's symbolic regional street foods, the myriad of mouthwatering treats hailing from Southern Italy in Naples and Campania.
Between the fried pizzas, pizzas and pizza a portafoglio, street food in the vibrant coastal city of Naples and surrounding area is plentiful and more often than not, carbohydrate based.
Take your appetite and an open mind and discover the home of Italian street food in Naples and Campania below, along with some of the best addresses to enjoy the finest examples in Naples and beyond.
Naples Street Food and Beyond
1. Cuoppo
The cuoppo is the iconic cone-shaped piece of card or paper filled with anything, provided it is fried, of course. Some vendors offer cones fillled with fish and others with mozzarella, orange and potato croquettes. The important thing is that the fried food is dry enough that you can eat it in the street without getting into a greasy mess, cone in hand.
Where can you find a good cuoppo in Campania? Among the best in Cetara is La Cuopperia del Convento in Piazza Grotta 13 in Cetara (Salerno), the famous address of Pasquale and Luigi Torrente.
2. Pizza a Portafoglio
Pizza as street food is turned into a booklet, some say "wallet". A normal pizza is folded until it becomes easy to eat, even on the street. Among the historical addresses where to eat it includse Di Matteo in Via dei Tribunali 94, a pizzeria which first opened in the 1930s and where you can always expect a queue!
Photo: © TripAdvisor
3. ‘O PER E ‘O MUSS
This is an example of "poor street food" made of pork offal. You eat almost all over Campania, but if you want to taste it in a historical address try the Antica Tripperia dal 1945 O Russ, at Pier delle Vigne 24 in Naples.
4. Fried Pizza
It is almost everywhere, complete (with ricotta, tomato, mozzarella and chips) or even in "lighter" variants. A truly historic place to enjoy it is at La Figlia del Presidente, where a fried pizza was also served to Bill Clinton on a visit to Naples in the 1990s. If you want a gourmet instead go to Franco Pepe, Pepe in Grani in Caiazzo.
(La Figlia del Presidente, Via del Grande Archivio, 23/24 Naples; Pepe In Grani, Vico San Giovanni Battista, 3, Caiazzo - Caserta)
5. Montanara
At first glance this may look like a smaller version of a fried pizza, in fact its second name is fried pizza. However, Montanare are usually softer and seasoned with tomato sauce, parmesan cheese and sometimes mozzarella.
Where to eat montanere? As always the addresses are plentiful, but if you want a good starting point try la Cantina del Gallo Antica Pizzeria e Trattoria, via A.Telesino, 21, Naples
6. Zeppulelle - Pasta Cresciuta
They are small jumbo that can have fish inside (often anchovies or fish) or vegetables such as zucchini flowers. They are good on their own or put in the chef together with other types of fried.
Photo: © Wikipedia
7. Frittatina di Pasta
The past frittata is another famous street food in Campania, and it's not for those watching their waistline. And the thing that you might be surprised to know is that the pasta frittata is generally eaten as an appetizer, before sinking your teeth into a soft pizza.
Even here to find you will be spoiled for choice, but if you want a superb try the one of the Salvo Brothers made with Gragnano pasta, potatoes and smoked buffalo mozzarella plus Parmigiano Reggiano.
(Pizzeria Salvo, Largo Arso 10-16, San Giorgio a Cremano, Naples)
8. Panuozzo
Panuozzo are a delicious mash up of when sandwich meets pizza. The typical street food from various provinces of Campania is made with baked bread made from pizza cooked in the wood-burning oven and then cooked a second time with the dressing. It is stuffed with mozzarella, tomatoes, vegetables.
One of the most popular areas for Panuozzo is Gragnano, where you will find several unforgettable addresses such as Pizzeria & Panozzeria de Fratelli Mascolo. Among the best examples are sausages and peppers.
(Pizzeria & Panozzeria de Fratelli Mascolo, Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 9 - Farofalo Gallery, Gragnano, Naples)
9. SFOGLIATELLA
Short crust or puff pastry? Whatever your preference, sfogliatella remain one of the sweetest street foods in Campania. Filled with ricotta and enriched with semolina and candied fruit. The good news is sfogliatella can be eaten at any time: breakfast, coffee after lunch and for a snack.
Where to eat them in Naples? The addresses are plentiful, but if you want to enjoy them from morning till night, go to Attanasio at Vico Ferrovia.
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